EASYBOOT SIZE 3
Use & Fitting of Easyboots:
1. Measuring for correct size: It is important to match the width of the hoof to the EASYBOOT size. The front hooves of most horses tend to be more round and wider than the hind hooves. The best fit may require a smaller size for the hind. If in doubt as to the proper size(s), measure the hoof across the bottom at the widest point and compare with the following recommended sizes.
00: 9.85cm to 10.8cm
1: 11.43cm to 12.38cm
2: 12.38cm to 13.3cm
3: 13.3cm to 14.6cm
Important: Easyboots should fit tight around the hoof and should require effort to put on. After you fit the Easyboot and the horse has had a chance to move around, make sure the Easyboots are still fitted squarely and securely on the hoof. Make sure the Easyboot has not twisted to the side. If the Easyboot has twisted to the side it is either to large or needs to be tightened. Discontinue use if the boot continues to twist. Boots that twist can cause damage to the hoof wall.
2. Prepare the hoof: Thoroughly clean hoof with hoof pick.
3. Putting on the boot using the pull-strap: Loop a piece of heavy string, twine or nylon strapping around the inside heel strap of the Easyboot. (For the new style boots, a nylon pull-strap is included with each boot). When carrying a boot while riding, have the strap attached beforehand to save time when applying the boot. Slip the Easyboot over the hoof making sure toe of hoof is as far forward as possible and boot is started on straight. Hold the ends of the strap. Pull on the strap to help pull the boot on over the heel but below the hair line and soft tissue.
Place horse's hoof on ground to set heel. Pull again on strap making sure hoof is all the way into boot. A snug fit is desirable. It may be necessary to work boot on. Pull strap out of boot.
4. Locking the buckle: Snap buckle closed with cable in tightest position possible. You may have to step on buckle to close it. Make sure to lock the buckle in the tightest position possible...it should take effort to lock down the buckle! If the buckle locks "too easily" in the tightest position you may need to make cable adjustments. If the buckle will absolutely not lock down, even in the loosest position you may need to make cable adjustments. See next step.
5. Adjusting the Cable: If the boot still seems loose, the buckle was "too easy" to lock down (or if you were unable to lock down the buckle at all) you may have to make cable adjustments to either make the boot tighter or looser.
a. This is the normal position of the cable at the top of the buckle.
b. If more slack in the cable is needed, adjust this way before fastening.
c. The cable can be shortened/tightened by making a loop as shown.
6. A properly applied boot: The entire boot should fit below the hairline all the way around the hoof (see accessories, if you think you might need a “lift“ for the hoof) The inside strap should fit snugly around the quarters, below the hairline, and below the heel bulbs. The length of the strap can be adjusted by unscrewing the screws on either or both sides of boot and re-fastening them using the next set of holes in the strap (see center picture). The points on the inside backing plates provide a positive grip to the hoof wall. More or less grip to the hoof wall can be obtained by bending the points toward or away from the hoof by using a hammer or pliers. The points will mark the hoof wall, but won't hurt the hoof. The angle of the plates inside the boot can be changed for a more-or-less aggressive fit. If the boot is to be used for medical purposes and no grip is necessary, the plates can be bent down flat with pliers.
The width of the hoof determines the right Easyboot size. The inside strap allows for adjustment in hoof length. If the strap rides on or above the soft part of the heel, the strap should be adjusted or cut down to prevent bruising or abrasion.
On the older style Easyboot, trimming down the back of the boot may be necessary to avoid any chaffing above the hairline. For normal use on a normal barefoot hoof, cut down the back of the boot along the lower line marked around the back of the Easyboot. Heavy scissors, tin snips, or a sharp knife will make a neat cut.
For flexibility in cold weather, keep the Easyboot in a heated room or soak in hot water before fitting on hoof.
7. Removing the boot: The best way to remove a properly fitted Easyboot is with a flat screwdriver. Place the screwdriver between the boot and the hoof at the side. Wedge the end of the flat screwdriver under the sole of the foot to pry off. If using the Easyboot over shoes you will need to work the back strap around the back of the shoe with the screwdriver before prying the boot off.
Normal use of Easyboots implies removal when not required. If it is convenient or necessary to leave them on for a week or longer, treat the hoof before putting on an Easyboot. An application of antiseptic hoof dressing, around the frog is insurance against bacterial or thrush buildup.
FAQ's about Easyboots:
Q. Do you need horseshoes in addition to Easyboots?
A. No. Easyboots provide complete hoof protection and traction. They may also be worn over normal shoes.
Q. Do you leave Easyboots on all the time?
A. No. Let the horse go barefoot as often as possible. Use Easyboots only when the horse needs foot protection or traction.
Q. Are Easyboots good for snow and ice?
A. Yes. Easyboot’s polyurethane surface eliminates snow balling up on the bottom of the boot as it would on the sole of a horse wearing standard shoes.
Q. Will water get into the boot?
A. Yes. A limited amount of water can get in the boot. This is harmless and sometimes makes the hoof healthier. Easyboots can be used to soak and soften the hoof for easier trimming.
Q. How can the hoof be medicated with the Easyboot?
A. Put the desired medication in the boot and snap on. If the medicine is in liquid form, put a piece of sponge rubber or absorbent cloth in the bottom of the boot.
Q. Will sand and gravel get into the boot?
A. Yes. A small amount of sand can get in but not enough to cause harm.
Q. Will Easyboots give good traction on pavement?
A. Yes. They provide sure footing for the horse and safety for the rider. Shod horses can be dangerous on pavement. Easyboots prevent slipping. They make excellent parade foot wear and reduce shock on pavement-like surfaces.
Q. Can Easyboots be used in the mountains?
A. Yes. They give horses good traction in rocky terrain and protect the sole from stone bruises and the wall and bulbs from abrasion.
Q. How do Easyboots help when transporting?
A. Easyboots protect a horse stepping on himself in a float. Some racehorse owners put Easyboots over racing plates instead of wrapping the legs or pulling the plates. The boots provide excellent traction on ramps and moving surfaces.
Q. Is it necessary to trim the horse’s hoof?
A. All horses need a proper hoof trimming program whether they are barefoot or shod. Consult your farrier or vet for any trimming questions or concerns.
Q. With such a variety in the shape of hooves, how can a good fit be assured?
A. Easyboots are tailored for maximum adjustability. The sizes are adjustable to accommodate most hoof variations, and the adaptable inside strap can be adjusted, reversed or trimmed.
Q. Are Easyboots economical?
A. Yes. With Easyboots, there is no need to shoe. Thoroughly tested on cross country and endurance rides, rough terrain and pavement, the Easyboot was found to out-wear steel shoes at least 3 to 1, with a range of over 500 miles. Horse owners have reported over 1000 miles per boot.
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